The submachine gun of the Soviet designer and gunsmith Georgy Semenovich Shpagin entered service with the Soviet Army in 1941. Produced in the amount of 6 million units, the PPSh assault rifle is still used in the armies of states around the world. Simplicity and reliability guarantee 5000 shots without cleaning or disassembling the weapon. Used with two types of magazines - sectoral for 35 and drum for 71 rounds. The firing speed and target range are twice as high as the German MP-40 and the English Thompson. Nowadays, a modification of the PPSh-41 is sold - a hunting carbine for single shooting. This is interesting:
The Shpagin submachine gun became a symbol of the Soviet soldier during the Great Patriotic War, the hero of many films and computer games.
A single shot hit a target at a distance of 350 meters, which was an unattainable indicator for foreign analogues of that time .
Characteristics of PPSh:
caliber - 7.62 mm, pistol cartridge length - 25 mm; rate of fire - 900 rounds per minute; initial bullet speed - 500 m/s; effective aimed shooting range - 300 m; shooting in bursts or single shots.
1. Before assembly, carefully read the included instructions. Pay attention to where the glue is applied, the order of gluing and painting, and the parts that must remain movable.
2. Please note that the varnish and glue included in the kit are non-toxic and have minimal drying time. If the varnish or glue is very thick, dilute it with a little water and mix.
3. Painting should be done in two or three thin layers, carefully spreading the varnish over the surface. This way the varnish will apply more evenly. For convenience, you can use masking (paper) tape. Stick it along the border of the area to be painted, smooth it carefully, paint it, and remove the tape after painting. After drying, varnish stains can be removed using a knife, a file, or sandpaper. Before applying the second coat of varnish, you can lightly sand the part. Do not overdo it.
4. When gluing decorative veneer elements to a part (for example, decorative overlays on the handle of a pistol), apply glue to the veneer in an even, thin layer. Connect the parts, align and press with your fingers for one to two minutes. During this time, the glue will slightly set under your fingers and the parts to be glued will no longer move. Then place the part with the overlay on a flat surface and press it on top with a load, for example, a stack of books. The overlays will be glued evenly, firmly and neatly.
5. The rubber bands of the mechanisms in our models are quite durable, but they can also tear. They are easy to change. You can use any suitable elastic bands: bank, hair, braiding, bicycle inner tubes. Rings cut from a balloon valve work well. The elastic bands can be folded two or three times if necessary. The reason for the premature failure of rubber bands is the sharp edges of the parts and mechanisms on which they are stretched. Pay attention to this and carefully round off all sharp edges when assembling the model.
6. Many modellers prefer to paint models in other colors. You can use any wood paints and varnishes. When purchasing them, pay attention to the drying time of each layer, as well as the moisture resistance of the paint or varnish itself. After drying, the paint or varnish should not get dirty.
Express delivery
Within the Moscow Ring Road - 300 rubles. Outside the Moscow Ring Road - 500 rubles.
Delivery time is 1-2 days after confirmation of the order by the store manager. SDEK couriers deliver goods from Monday to Friday (except holidays) from 10:00 to 18:00. On the day of delivery, the courier contacts the buyer to clarify a convenient delivery time.
SDEK Pickup Points - from 190 rubles.
Delivery time is 2-3 days after confirmation of the order by the store manager.
Delivery across Russia
Courier delivery - from 300 rubles.
Delivery time is 3-7 days after confirmation of the order by the store manager. Delivery costs depend on the location you select when placing your order. SDEK couriers deliver goods from Monday to Friday (except holidays) from 10:00 to 18:00. On the day of delivery, the courier contacts the buyer to clarify a convenient delivery time.
SDEK pick-up points - from 290 rubles.
Delivery time is 3-7 days after confirmation of the order by the store manager. Delivery costs depend on the location you select when placing your order.
Russian Post - from 250 rubles.
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Childhood is certainly carefree, joyful and the most beautiful moment in a person’s life. The girls played with dolls, while the boys rushed around the yards with a huge arsenal of purchased and home-made weapons. The author of today's article decided to please his son with a toy that many of the boys could only dream of before. He made a wooden PPSh assault rifle with his own hands!
The little one, apparently after watching films about the Second World War dedicated to the Victory Day, decided to get himself a PPSh. Let's go shopping, it's all crazy. Those. There are all sorts of Uzis, M16s, blasters a dime a dozen, but there are no PPShs... Well, in despair, I foolishly blurted out, and at the end of first grade, I’ll cut your gun down. The man said, and he did, as they say.
Of course not an exact copy, the main thing is that the silhouette is similar. All materials are boards and old parts.
I decided not to make a full-size piece, but to fit a child’s hand. I measured a bunch of his machine guns and settled on the half-meter size.
We take a board, draw...
We cut along the contour with a jigsaw...
We process with files of different profiles and notches...
We mill (with a cutter on a drilling machine) the holes of the casing. This is very important, since the little one said that it won’t roll without them. At the same time we make the trigger, the guard and the front sight...
We sand until we turn blue (the face, I mean)... Since the toy has a minimum of corners and burrs...
No, the presentation was on Monday...
Well, so... I got a little oak stain, I couldn’t figure out what color it was on the real stock, it seemed similar. I installed the hook tightly, using cold welding...
I cut out a rear sight from some green garbage. He and the front sight were placed on long screws through the entire thickness so that it would not fall off. The heads were coated with welding and sanded...
Need a shutter. I remembered my childhood - that's right - our fsyo. True, it doesn’t fit in terms of functionality, but there is something to click on. Using a chisel, I chose a deeper place, screwed it on, covered it up...
I used clear varnish twice. Where the paint will be, I didn’t.
Now - “tambourine”. To be honest, I broke my tambourine while I figured out how to make it. It needs to be heavy to give weight. In general, I cut a round timber from 10mm duralumin, then the same one from 28mm plywood. Fastened with threaded screws. I sanded it around and here it is...
Now you need to securely fasten it. I drilled an M6 thread at the end of the duralumin, cut it accordingly and screwed a mm50+ screw through the entire barrel and drove a 70mm self-tapping screw into the plywood. Holds strong...
All the cracks and recesses under the screw heads were covered with cold welding and sanded...
I didn’t take any photos of the painting process, there’s nothing special to see there. I bought a screw-ring, 2 pcs, in the store, picked out a belt from some bag from my wife’s supplies, and voila..
And here is the happy owner of this product...
Dear visitors to the site “Visiting Samodelkin”, from the master class presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a PPSh (Shpagin submachine gun) from wood.
This machine gun was created for the author’s son, who was 6 years old. The guy has a natural and healthy craving for small arms, mainly liking weapons from the period of the Great Patriotic War. Having seen the PPSh at the parade, I was eager to get one))
Well, it’s the father’s duty to find a toy machine at all costs; in toy stores the prices are usually inflated, and the quality leaves much to be desired. It was decided to make a submachine gun from wood on our own; two furniture panels made from a Christmas tree had been lying on the balcony for about 10 years, and they became the starting material.
I found a ready-made sketch on the Internet, downloaded it, redrew it and transferred the drawing onto 2 furniture panels pre-glued together. I glued the boards with wood glue and clamped them with clamps, the thickness of one plate is 18 mm, in the process it turned out that they were not very even, maybe from time to time, in general it was difficult to glue and pull together.
I also wanted the machine gun to be very similar and detailed, so detachable magazines, a trigger, a front sight, a bolt, swivels, a sight, and a butt plate were added.
So, let's look at what exactly is required to make a submachine gun?
Materials
1. furniture board 2 pieces (spruce) 18 mm 2. wood glue 3. latch 4. butt plate from a real 19th century gun (a simple brass plate can be used) 5. paint, varnish, primer 6. aluminum plate 3-4 mm 7. swivels
Tools
1. jigsaw 2. drill 3. router 4. file 5. chisel 6. screwdriver 7. sandpaper 8. spray paint 9. clamps 10. brush 11. spray booth or box 12. ruler
Step-by-step instructions for making PPSh from wood with your own hands.
First, you should familiarize yourself with the history of the creation of the machine itself, by whom and when was it developed? A little historical background. The PPSh, also known as the Shpagin submachine gun, was developed in 1940 by gunsmith designer G.S. Shpagin. Adopted by the Red Army on December 21, 1940. The cartridge is 7.62x25 TT, the drum magazine capacity is 71 rounds, the rate of fire is 1000 rounds per minute. It is one of the main symbols of the victory of the Soviet Union in World War II. It was in service until 1960, then it was replaced by the AK-47. In some CIS countries, it is still in service with police and security forces to this day.
In our case, the machine will be a toy, but as close as possible to the original in appearance) The main material is 2 furniture boards 18 mm thick, the author took spruce, but according to him it is better to take harder wood, because spruce is soft and brittle, in the process I had to glue the broken pieces back many times.
We take the shield, coat it with wood glue, then cover it with a second shield on top and tighten it with clamps; again, the author recommends using metal clamps, because plastic ones are too weak if the surfaces are uneven.
Afterwards, you need to let the glue dry for at least a day (24 hours). Next, the author, based on a drawing from the Internet, drew a contour on the workpiece and cut it out using a jigsaw.
This is exactly what happened in the end.
We chamfer, round and sand with sandpaper.
The air cooling holes of the submachine gun barrel are milled.
A semicircle is sharpened with a file.
Use a chisel to select wood for the swivel.
Preparing metal blanks for subsequent painting, except for the buttplate, because it is from a real gun from the 19th century.
They are suspended in the paint booth and covered with primer.
Painted, now you need to give the parts time to dry.
A lever for attaching a disc magazine of a submachine gun is cut out of a metal plate, and on the disc itself, the attachment point is reinforced with a plate with a hole.
After which a groove is drilled for installing the lever.
The grooves for the bracket and trigger are also drilled.
And here is the actual result of the master’s painstaking work.
As you can see, if you wish, you can make a cool toy for your child from wood with your own hands, and the most important thing is that the boy will hold in his hands the symbol of the Victory of his Heroic Soviet people over the World Evil. A true patriot of his Fatherland and a defender of the Motherland is growing up.
Dear Fathers! Make wooden toys for children with patriotic overtones! You have a sample, so let’s take it and do it. Take heart, friends. I have the honor!
This concludes the article. Thank you all very much for your attention! Come visit often and don't miss out on new items in the world of homemade products!
In the modern world, many children are practically indifferent to toys. Electronic gadgets are of much greater interest now. Of course, every parent is concerned about this and tries to introduce their child to games with real objects.
One of the best ways to wean your child off from virtual worlds is to make a toy with him. A do-it-yourself machine will be an excellent toy with which you can have a lot of fun. And if you manage to save it, it will be an excellent souvenir “from childhood”, bringing with it a lot of pleasant memories.
There are several ways in which you can create an automaton. It all depends on how much time and effort you are willing to put into the craft. Another important factor is the availability of all the necessary tools. After all, not everyone has a whole carpentry kit in stock.
If the child for whom the product is intended is old enough, then you can further diversify the toy. Namely, add a shooting function.
The main thing to remember is that in order not to overshadow the process of creating a wooden machine, you should also not forget about basic safety rules. Protect your hands when working with cutting tools. Purchase a protective mask and respirator in advance for working on a grinding machine or with sandpaper.
There are a huge number of fun things you can play with your children. Undoubtedly, these are outdoor games. At the same time, an integral advantage of a wooden toy is its durability. The same cannot be said about plastic analogues.
How to make a simple machine from wood
To diversify your child's games, you can make a simple wooden machine. It won't take much time, but first you need to prepare everything you need.
Tools:
- Circular saw;
- Drill;
- Jigsaw;
- Sharpener 10 cm.
- Sandpaper;
To simplify your work, print out a drawing of the machine model. The drawing can be easily found on the Internet. Then follow the instructions below:
- Take a block of wood or a piece of thick board;
- Based on a drawing or photograph of a machine gun, carefully mark the boundaries of the future weapon on the tree with a marker;
If you print an image of a machine gun on paper, and then cut it out and use it as a stencil, the product will turn out to be very realistic. After all, all proportions will be maintained.
- Start cutting straight lines using a circular saw;
- Pay special attention to cutting out the curved parts of the machine. To do this you need to use a jigsaw;
- Use a sharpener to contour the weapon;
- To make the machine more interesting, do not forget to drill holes such as the barrel;
- Polish the resulting weapon using sandpaper by hand;
- Take a small piece of wire, preferably aluminum, to construct the trigger;
- At the end, paint the machine or varnish it;
This wooden toy machine is quite easy to make and will bring a lot of joy to the child.
How to make a realistic Kalashnikov assault rifle
A realistic model of the machine can be made at home using available tools. So, here is a list of things you will need:
- Thick and wide board (thickness should be at least 4 cm);
- Wood handle (quite thin);
- Plywood sheet;
- PVA glue;
- Dye;
- Jigsaw;
- Milling machine;
- Sandpaper;
- Magnets;
- Marker;
First, choose the necessary material for work. It is better to choose a pine board.
When choosing wood for a product, please note that there should be no knots or splinters on it.
We make a sketch on the wood. Using a marker we outline the outline of the future Kalashnikov. It is worth considering that the magazine will be separately attached to the machine, so you need to draw it separately. When the image is ready, begin to carefully cut out the blank using a jigsaw.
In order for the magazine to be securely attached to the base of the weapon, you need to try it on and sharpen it several times. Nothing should get caught, only in this case the child will be comfortable while playing.
Use a milling machine to add volume to the product. To do this, it is necessary to chamfer the handle, as well as the butt. Subsequently, sand the workpieces as best as possible.
Take the prepared side parts, cut from plywood, and glue them to the main part of the machine, generously smearing them with glue. Particular attention should be paid to the contour of the workpiece. Then press all the parts for more reliable gluing, and leave for several hours until completely dry. As a result, it is worth sanding the product again so that the plywood parts do not stand out.
Start modeling the barrel of the future wooden machine gun. At this stage you will need a thin cutting (you can make it yourself or purchase it in the construction department of the store). You also need to cut out the front sight and drill holes in the machine gun in order to later fasten the barrel. Lubricate all parts with glue at the fastening points. After the machine is completely assembled, give it time to dry.
At the final stage, start painting the resulting machine model. You can use dark paint or varnish.
If you prefer paint, use water-based paint. It's safer.
To make the magazine more securely attached to the machine, it is necessary to use magnets. If the purchased magnets are in the shape of a tablet, then before gluing them, it is worth drilling small holes in the magazine and the inside of the machine. The diameter of the holes must match the diameter of the magnets. If you purchased a roll-type magnet, then glue a piece of the magnet of the desired shape and size to the inside of the machine. In this case, a metal plate must be glued to the magazine. It is better to choose quick-drying glue or superglue.
Now the wooden machine gun is ready. This weapon model is very interesting and realistic, which means it will undoubtedly be in demand among children.
Design
It is a “PPSh” automatic firearm. It is designed for firing in bursts and single shots. Automation works due to the free recoil of the shutter. This is an important property in this case. In other words, reloading and extraction of the cartridge case occurs after the shot due to the return of the loose bolt. Fire is fired from the rear sear, that is, before the shot, the bolt is in the rear extreme position. Then, after descending, he goes forward, after which he fires the cartridge. The primer is pierced at the moment the last process is completed. The shutter does not lock during firing.
This scheme is often used in the development of devices such as submachine guns. For example, the Israeli-made Uzi works on a similar principle. Although absolutely simple, such a solution requires the use of a massive bolt, which increases the entire mass of the weapon. In addition, a weapon that uses a similar reloading scheme can fire due to a strong blow, for example, when falling. If, due to an impact, the bolt rolls from the front extreme (unfixed) position along the guides further than the cartridge feed window from the magazine or from the rear extreme position, it will break off the stopper.
As in Degtyarev’s weapons, such a device as the PPSh assault rifle has: a receiver, which is fused with the barrel casing, a free massive bolt with a safety lock on the loading handle, and a disk magazine. He also has a wooden stock. But with all this, the PPSh-automatic is more technologically advanced. In this model, only the barrel needs precision mechanical processing, and the bolt was made on a lathe with further rough milling. In weapons such as the PPSh (automatic machine), the production of almost all other metal parts can be done by stamping. Here, the barrel casing has a recoil compensator at its front end. That is, in this case there is a beveled plate with a hole for the bullet to pass through. There are through windows on the sides of the casing. Thanks to the reactive action of powder gases when fired, they significantly reduce the effect of recoil and “lifting” of the barrel upward. The scope of this model has only 2 positions. Namely - 200 and 100 m. Since 1942, the PPSh began to be equipped not with a disk magazine, but with a sector (box-shaped) magazine for 35 rounds.
How to make a toy machine and wood
Before you start working on a future toy, carefully draw a sketch of the future machine and transfer it to the material from which the product will be made. In this case, each detail must be drawn separately.
Make sure that the entire set of tools necessary for the job is at your fingertips. For the initial finishing you will need: hammer, chisel, hatchet, plane, wood hacksaw, metal hacksaw, drill, level.
For harvesting, you should choose coniferous wood. And on the blank, leave at least 15% of the material as a reserve. This is required for subsequent adjustments to the shape of the product. All elements of the future machine are cut out separately.
After all the parts are cut out of the wood, you need to move on to the sanding stage. To achieve the desired result, use the following sequence. First, file each piece using files. Then use coarse sandpaper first and then fine sandpaper to bring the surface of the product to the required level of smoothness.
At the last stage, start decorating the future toy. To do this, coat the surface of the wood with varnish, preferably in two layers. Pre-prime the areas where the paint will be applied.
Let the toy machine dry. And you can start playing.
History of PPSh during World War II
It was distributed in various branches of the military: infantry, guards units, airborne groups. It was also actively used by partisans operating in German-occupied territory.
Even German soldiers willingly used it instead of the MP-38/40.
The ROA (Russian Liberation Army) of Vlasov also had their own PPSh.
Ease of use made it possible to reduce the training period for recruits. And this is important in conditions of military operations.
This PP has proven itself in tank landings. After breaking through the defense line with tanks, soldiers with PPSh in their hands burst into the enemy’s trenches and used the so-called “trench broom” tactics.
Taking advantage of the high rate of fire, they suppressed enemy soldiers with fire, which left them no chance to survive.
In this kind of battle, the main thing is the rate of fire and the ability to suppress the enemy with continuous fire. The same thing happened in Kharkov and in the spring of 1945 in Berlin.
How to make a Schmeisser machine gun
You can make a machine gun from wood in different ways. It all depends on your skill and the materials you have at hand.
To make a machine model you will need:
- Wooden slats - 2 pcs.;
- Super glue;
- Nails;
- Espagnolette;
- Hacksaw;
- Sandpaper;
The boards or slats that will be used must be at least 50 centimeters long. We saw the first strip lengthwise in the middle, leaving only a third. While the lower part needs to be removed. We divide the second rail into two unequal segments. The longer part will be the magazine, and the short part will be the handle of the future machine gun.
The prepared parts of the product must be sanded using sandpaper. Then fasten all the parts together using glue.
Also, any weapon needs a front sight. Make it from a nail, carefully driving it into the upper part of the barrel. Make the trigger in a similar way. Attach a latch to the side of the machine as a bolt.
At the final stage, sand the future toy again with sandpaper. Then cover the entire machine with dark paint. And let the product dry.
Now you can enjoy playing this slot machine and win new victories.
DIY PPSh for my son
Dear visitors to the site “Visiting Samodelkin,” from the master class presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a PPSh (Shpagin submachine gun) from wood.
This machine gun was created for the author’s son, who was 6 years old. The guy has a natural and healthy desire for small arms, mainly liking weapons from the period of the Great Patriotic War. Having seen the PPSh at the parade, I was eager to get one))
I found a ready-made sketch on the Internet, downloaded it, redrew it and transferred the drawing onto 2 furniture panels pre-glued together. I glued the boards with wood glue and clamped them with clamps, the thickness of one plate is 18 mm, in the process it turned out that they were not very even, maybe from time to time, in general it was difficult to glue and pull together.
I also wanted the machine gun to be very similar and detailed, so detachable magazines, a trigger, a front sight, a bolt, swivels, a sight, and a butt plate were added.
So, let's look at what exactly is required to make a submachine gun?
1. furniture board 2 pieces (spruce) 18 mm 2. wood glue 3. latch 4. butt plate from a real 19th century gun (a simple brass plate can be used) 5. paint, varnish, primer 6. aluminum plate 3-4 mm 7. swivels
1. jigsaw 2. drill 3. router 4. file 5. chisel 6. screwdriver 7. sandpaper 8. spray paint 9. clamps 10. brush 11. spray booth or box 12. ruler
Step-by-step instructions for making PPSh from wood with your own hands.
In our case, the machine will be a toy, but as close as possible to the original in appearance) The main material is 2 furniture boards 18 mm thick, the author took spruce, but according to him it is better to take harder wood, because spruce is soft and brittle, in the process I had to glue the broken pieces back many times.
As you can see, if you wish, you can make a cool toy for your child from wood with your own hands, and the most important thing is that the boy will hold in his hands the symbol of the Victory of his Heroic Soviet people over the World Evil. A true patriot of his Fatherland and a defender of the Motherland is growing up.
Dear Fathers! Make wooden toys for children with patriotic overtones! You have a sample, so let’s take it and do it. Take heart, friends. I have the honor!
This concludes the article. Thank you all very much for your attention! Come visit often and don't miss out on new items in the world of homemade products!
Source
How to make a simple Schmeisser
It often happens that there is not enough time to create a complex machine model. But this is not a problem, because a simple Schmeiser can be made from scrap materials. You will need:
- Chisel;
- Nails;
- A pair of wide slats;
Divide one of the slats into two parts. It is desirable that one of the halves is longer than the other.
On the second rail, cut out several pieces in the area of the future trunk. Also in the opposite part, saw off a piece of wood so that you get an acute angle. This will be an improvised butt of a machine gun.
Finally, use nails to attach the magazine and the handle to the main part of the toy.
Trunk
Inside this part there is a channel with four grooves. They curl up from left to right. There is also a chamber with a bullet entrance. It has a certain bevel at the bottom. This is to set the direction of movement of the cartridge into the chamber.
This trunk contains on the outside:
- The front part is rounded. This is to protect against nicks.
- Thickened part. For placement in a receiver box.
- A semicircular notch on the thickened part. This is to secure the barrel in the appropriate box.
- The protrusion is circular. In order to limit the process of barrel advancement when returning to place. This also reduces the perception of bolt shock.
How to make a dummy machine gun from wood
Often, ordinary plywood is an excellent material for creating a dummy. Using one of the methods, you can easily make a machine model with your own hands.
To work you will need the following “basic” tools and accessories:
- Plywood.
It is not necessary to use a whole sheet of material; in most cases, scraps are sufficient. However, it is important that the pieces are of the appropriate size and thickness. Sometimes it is worth choosing thicker plywood, since during use the layout may be subject to significant loads; - Tools.
This list includes both devices for grinding and cutting. To make various recesses and holes on the surface of the dummy, you need to have a carpenter's knife or chisel on hand. While for sanding several sheets of sandpaper of varying degrees of grit are sufficient; - Protective covering.
The future product must first be coated with a special compound that protects it from moisture. And then cover the dummy with wear-resistant paint. Black wood paint is most often used. But you can also use silver. - Glue.
In order for all parts of the machine to be securely fastened, it is necessary to use epoxy resin as glue. If it is not available, then you can get by with PVA glue. And in some cases even superglue;
To create a real dummy, you need to find a sketch of a real machine in advance. It is advisable that all exact dimensions are indicated on the drawing.
When all the components of the future dummy have already been cut out of plywood, you need to glue them together and securely fasten them until they dry completely. Clamps will be very useful in this process. They will securely fix all the parts together.
In order for the “blank” to take the shape of the desired machine, it is necessary to recreate all the holes and recesses. Use a jigsaw for this, first drilling the holes and then shaping them.
The dummy must have a realistic appearance. This means you will need to work hard. If you do not have enough experience working with cutters, it is better to start with simpler parts. Otherwise, you may accidentally damage the product and the work will have to start from scratch. However, the result should please you with its similarity to the original.
Pay special attention to sanding. To give the necessary smoothness, carefully sand the dummy with sandpaper. First, go over the entire surface with coarse sandpaper. For example, marked M - 100. And then use small paper for finishing.
Of course, it is necessary to paint the dummy. Please note that the colors must match the original of this machine model. Choose paints of the desired shades.
What safety rules must be followed when working?
Before making a sniper rifle, take the time to study basic safety rules. For example, it is best to start woodworking in a special apron (it should cover the upper part of your body down to the knees) and gloves. These could be ordinary gloves, which we often buy when we do repairs or paint something.
It is better to hide your hair under a cap or bandana so that it does not interfere. This will protect you from hair getting into the blades of the milling machine and other equipment. For the same reason, before work, it is better to take off long chains and other jewelry, neck scarves and scarves. It is also better not to wear clothes that contain decorative elements, such as ruffles or fringes, while working.
Before making a rifle out of wood, make sure to purchase special safety glasses. You will need them at the moment when you grind and comb wooden models. And they are the ones who will help protect your eyes from small parts of wood, dust and shavings getting into them.
When working with an electric drill, check the serviceability and working condition of all tees and sockets.
How to make a machine gun that shoots rubber bands
Any machine gun model presented above can be modified by adding the ability to fire.
The easiest way is to attach a small handle to one of the sides of the machine. A thin lath may also work. The “trigger mechanism” can be installed either from above or from the side. The main thing is that it is comfortable for small children's hands.
You can attach the cuttings using nails or superglue. The main thing is that the fastening is reliable.
Another thing necessary for shooting is a rubber band. It is better to use so-called “bank” rubber bands. They cost very little and are the perfect size. There may be a couple of these rubber bands in your organizer. To charge the weapon, weave two rubber bands, attach a paper clip to one of them. If possible, it is better to make several charges. To fire the shot, carefully grasp the paperclip. In this case, the elastic band must be stretched to the very edge of the handle. And then release the paperclip.
Try not to point the weapon at people or animals, as the shot can have significant force and cause harm to others.
Shpagin system submachine gun: Drum roll of the Red Army
The Shpagin submachine gun became a symbol of the Soviet soldier during the Great Patriotic War, the hero of many films and computer games. A single shot hit a target at a distance of 350 meters, which was an unattainable indicator for foreign analogues of that time
.
Characteristics of PPSh:
1. Before assembly, carefully read the attached instructions. Pay attention to the places where the glue is applied, the order of gluing and painting, and the parts that must remain movable.
2. Please note that the varnish and glue included in the kit are non-toxic and have minimal drying time. If the varnish or glue is very thick, dilute it with a little water and mix.
3. Painting should be done in two or three thin layers, carefully spreading the varnish over the surface. This way the varnish will apply more evenly. For convenience, you can use masking (paper) tape. Stick it along the border of the area to be painted, smooth it carefully, paint it, and remove the tape after painting. After drying, varnish stains can be removed using a knife, a file, or sandpaper. Before applying the second coat of varnish, you can lightly sand the part. Do not overdo it.
4. When gluing decorative veneer elements to a part (for example, decorative overlays on the handle of a pistol), apply glue to the veneer in an even, thin layer. Connect the parts, align and press with your fingers for one to two minutes. During this time, the glue will slightly set under your fingers and the parts to be glued will no longer move. Then place the part with the overlay on a flat surface and press it on top with a load, for example, a stack of books. The overlays will be glued evenly, firmly and neatly.
5. The rubber bands of the mechanisms in our models are quite durable, but they can also tear. They are easy to change. You can use any suitable elastic bands: bank, hair, braiding, bicycle inner tubes. Rings cut from a balloon valve work well. The elastic bands can be folded two or three times if necessary. The reason for the premature failure of rubber bands is the sharp edges of the parts and mechanisms on which they are stretched. Pay attention to this and carefully round off all sharp edges when assembling the model.
How to modify a machine
In order for a wooden weapon to be fully equipped, in addition to the machine gun itself, you will need a bayonet, a knife and a belt to carry. This will be especially true if the toy was made of dense wood.
The belt can be made of canvas tape. And it is attached to the machine with two rings of metal wire, or in pre-cut holes. Also, for more comfortable wearing, you should make a “double loop” from the tape. To do this, you will need a piece of a weapon belt twice the standard length and a ring made of thick wire. First, we attach the belt to the machine gun, so that one of the edges is fixed near the barrel, then we thread the belt into the prepared ring and draw it closer to the base of the barrel. We pass the middle of the tape through the fastening near the butt. If everything is done correctly, there should be a long “tail” of the belt, to the edge of which it is necessary to sew a ring made of durable metal, which remains hanging on the fixed section of the belt.
In the future, it is the elongated part of the belt that is put on the person, and the machine gun remains hanging on it. This option of carrying a wooden weapon will allow the child to play carefree, without having to hold the machine with his hand all the time. However, when calculating the length of the belt, it is worth considering that in a free position, the barrel should not touch the ground.
Now your dream wooden machine has been created and is fully equipped!
Performance characteristics
Let's look at the main characteristics of the Shpagin submachine gun. They look like this.
Accuracy of fire
| Distance in meters | Height dispersion in millimeters | Width dispersion in millimeters | ||
| Single shot | Queue | Single shot | Queue | |
| 50 | 100 | 150 | 100 | 140 |
| 100 | 200 | 300 | 200 | 270 |
| 150 | 310 | 450 | 300 | 400 |
| 200 | 420 | 600 | 400 | 500 |
| 250 | 530 | 750 | 500 | 660 |
| 300 | 640 | 900 | 600 | 800 |
On a note! The maximum effectiveness of firing from PPSh was achieved at distances not exceeding 200 meters. At long distances, shooting efficiency dropped, and ammunition consumption increased noticeably.
Ammunition Features
The magazine of the Shpagin submachine gun was filled with cartridges from a TT pistol, 7.62 mm caliber. the weight of each cartridge varied between 10-11 grams, of which 5.5 g was the mass of the bullet, 0.48 was the powder charge. The cartridge length was 35 mm, the bullet energy was no more than 575 J.
