DIY nunchucks: detailed instructions

Nunchakus these days

Modern nunchucks are two sticks made of wood, metal or other dense material, connected by a rope or chain.

Low-grade films by Hollywood directors promoted nunchucks as the most effective melee weapon, wielding which you can even defeat an opponent with a sword. Any experienced fighter knows that any long weapon is superior to a short weapon, and a sword even more so. And the spectacular rotations of the nunchuk are not used in real combat, since the rotating weapon is easily knocked out of the hands.

Nunchakus are weapons that allow you to fight with multiple unarmed opponents or opponents armed with knives. This is where they are extremely effective. Against any long weapon, be it a pole or a baseball bat, the nunchaku has practically no chance (unless, of course, you are a master of nunchaku jutsu, and your opponent is a local gopnik).

Many modern karate styles use nunchucks for their training, sometimes even a black belt requires mandatory knowledge of techniques with nunchucks.

The history of the nunchuk

As written in most sources, the manufacture of nunchaku is attributed to Okinawan peasants, who modernized the flail for threshing rice. As it turns out, this statement is not true. Nunchakus were not invented by peasants at all, but for protection from peasants. In order to be convinced of the difference between a nunchuck and a flail, it is enough to hold this flail in your hands at least once. One stick is as long as a man, the second is quite short. In addition, there is a fighting flail technique, which actually comes from a peasant agricultural tool.

Most Japanese kobudu masters adhere to the version that nunchakus are weapons that originated from wooden horse bits. In books about karate it is written that all specific Okinawan weapons were invented by peasants. This statement is unfounded, since the peasants lived from hand to mouth and were forced to spend all their free time at work. By tracing the history of any Okinawan style of karate or jutsu, it appears that the founder of the school was either a noble himself or studied under a noble.

The serving nobles in Okinawa lived only on the salaries that the king paid them. And if the local feudal lords lived quite richly, then for the serving nobles the salary was the only source of income. To rectify the situation, in 1724 they were allowed to engage in trade and agriculture.

In the 70s of the 19th century, all Okinawan nobles were deprived of their titles, salaries and the right to bear arms. Mass relocation to villages began in order to somehow feed their families. The former owners and police officers were received very poorly by local residents. They tried at any cost to force the aristocrats to leave their lands. It came to the point of open massacres. Deprived of their usual weapons, the nobles remembered the forgotten skills of hand-to-hand combat.

A warrior, even an unwilling peasant, will try to turn any available object into a weapon. If the ninja used any available objects for killing, the Okinawan nobility used them (objects) for protection. Two wooden sticks tied with a rope in the hands of a warrior were able to turn into an effective weapon. So nunchucks took their rightful place among improvised weapons.

To be fair, it is worth noting that wooden nunchucks have never been particularly popular in Okinawa. They owe their popularity to Bruce Lee.

How to learn to use nunchucks

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To master this weapon, you need to regularly train and improve your skills for 2-3 years. In addition to this, you need to develop:

dexterity;
intuition - to predict the movements of the enemy;
coordination;
speed of reactions.

Nunchakus are the most famous oriental military weapon.

Safety precautions

In order to learn how to use nunchucks, you need to master the basic technique under the strict supervision of a competent master in the gym. If you plan to train without the supervision of a trainer, you need to follow safety precautions. Using a weapon without proper training may result in injury.

Buy a nunchuck for training. In stores you can find weapons made from soft materials (for example, foam). During training, the implement will often hit sensitive areas of the body, and the hard rods may leave bruises or cause serious contusions. Wooden weapons can be used only after mastering basic techniques and bringing them to automatism.
Choose comfortable clothes. It should be free and in no case restrict movement. The optimal solution is a leotard without a T-shirt.
Prepare the study room. It is necessary to free up space from furniture, taking into account the length of the weapon. Experts recommend starting your workouts outdoors rather than indoors so that you have more room to maneuver.
Warm up before your workout. Before you begin the exercises, be sure to stretch the muscles of your torso and arms.

Training in a specialized gym together with a master allows you not only to maintain your health, but also to keep things, furniture and other valuables completely intact, since during training there is a possibility of damage to such items.

Step-by-step training plan

The main secret of using nunchucks is mastering the basic movements and their repeated repetition, which allows you to bring each action to automatism, when the movement is “put on reflex”.

This can be achieved by following the following scheme:

Perform the exercise at low speed, just enough to maintain tension on the cord.
Study the trajectory of the sticks to understand how far they go, at what moment they return, etc.
Gradually increase execution speed.
Increase precision and clarity of movements.
Perform several techniques with a gradual increase in the speed and force of the blow.

Do not hurry! Apply this pattern to each exercise to get a feel for the movements and eventually learn to perform them without thinking.

Exercises for Beginners

Initially, professionals recommend learning how to hold the nunchaku correctly using the following techniques:

grab in the middle;
recapture;
grip at the lower end;
grip at the top end, etc.

Basic techniques will help you master over time the basic movements of the weapon and feel that it acts as an extension of your hands.

Learn how to perform the most famous nunchuck move - the figure eight:

Place the nunchaku behind your shoulder.
Swing diagonally inward toward your left hip.
Then swing the free handle up to the left and make a diagonal swing down to the right.
At your right hip, rotate the handle up and to the right.
Perform a diagonal swing to the left and down.

Having studied the basic basics, you can begin training related to blocking strikes. Competent professionals distinguish three main types of blocks:

upper;
lower;
side.

Next, you can begin training related to the basic, that is, basic movements and swing strikes of the nunchaku. Basically, swing and basic movements are carried out along a direct and reverse trajectory.

During initial training involving swinging strikes and basic movements, it is necessary to use a short rope, but in no case a projectile, since significant injuries can be caused if the movements are incorrect. When all actions are brought to automaticity, you can resort to using the tool itself, which will allow you to hone your own skills.

Nunchaku as a weapon

As a weapon, masters mainly use standard (main) stances, rotating the nunchaku along a trajectory, with the help of which, in combination with various interceptions, they can block and deliver painful blows. When starting to work with this type of weapon, it is worth mastering the technique of strikes and, of course, interceptions. But first, you should learn how to hold the nunchaku using different techniques:

grab in the middle
grip at lower and upper end
Recapture, etc.

This will help you gradually get used to it and feel as if the weapon is an extension of your hands. Having studied the basics of hand holding, it is worth familiarizing yourself with blocking strikes. There are different types of blocks: top, side, bottom. The next stage: learn swing strikes and the basic (basic) movements of the nunchaku (“figure eight” - forward and reverse). When training the figure eight, you can initially use not a projectile, but, for example, a short rope similar to it. After the movements become mechanical, it is worth starting to use the weapon itself. Over time it will turn out better and better. Nunchaku is a weapon that requires considerable persistence and devilish patience to master. It can be noted that at this stage of life the weapon is quite popular and is one of the first tools of ko-budo.

Quite often you can see the nunchaku technique in movies, mainly in action films, as well as a large number of articles about this type of weapon. Unfortunately, there are cases when people use this item for harmful purposes, thereby desecrating the ancient appearance of a noble military weapon. There are countries where using, let alone storing, nunchaku is strictly prohibited and punishable by law. However, as can be clearly seen, it is not the nunchaku that is dangerous at all. The danger lies in people who use an object for other purposes, to the detriment of themselves and others. Nunchaku is not only a weapon of danger, self-defense and belligerence, but also an object that carries a great history, the truth of the martial arts of great masters and the path of enlightenment.

History of weapons

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The most popular version of the appearance of the nunchuk says that the prototype of the weapon was a flail for threshing rice. There are versions that it appeared in China or in East Asian countries. The differences relate mainly to the length of the connecting link (Chinese - 20-30 cm, Okinawan - the width of the foot, or the more common standard - the width of the owner's palm). The reasons for this change in function were, firstly, the legal ban on peasants carrying any weapons, and secondly, nunchucks, when struck by any force, did not give back to the hand holding them, which is much more convenient than an ordinary stick.

Finally, another version, from authoritative masters Miyagi and Ikeda, says that the weapon that served as the prototype for the nunchuk was brought to Okinawa by the Chinese Japanese. It is believed that this is the most plausible version, since similar types of weapons were known much earlier in China.

In modern times, nunchucks (tobacco toyoks) were popularized by actor and martial artist Bruce Lee and his martial arts student (and Philippine martial arts teacher) Dan Inosanto, who introduced the weapon to the actor. Another popular association these days is the character Michelangelo from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.

Considering the status of edged weapons in the USSR, for a long time nunchucks were made exclusively by booths independently and for themselves, while the question of the legality of this action did not arise among the manufacturers themselves due to the actual ban on martial arts as such. This of course did not allow the development of the production and import of nunchaku, because it was much easier to find a pair of stool legs of approximately the same weight and make them yourself. Therefore, by the time this was no longer monitored and serial samples of weapons began to appear on the market, martial arts lovers had already accumulated a lot of experience in their independent production, and the samples on sale naturally continue to be in scanty demand. The only exceptions are “safe” nunchucks, the handles of which are made of soft material, which makes it possible to reduce injuries to almost zero, since making them at home is much more difficult (primarily due to the materials) than conventional ones.

Exercises to correct posture

Incorrect posture is the first step to the development of diseases of the musculoskeletal system. At the initial stage, it is not difficult to correct the matter on your own; the main thing is to set a goal and persistently pursue it. Exercises to correct your posture are an important step towards health.

Poor posture in adults often has its roots in childhood: incorrect posture at a desk, a heavy backpack that pulls one shoulder, and lack of sufficient physical activity leads to lordosis and scoliosis. Normalizing posture at home is possible if you follow general recommendations and work hard on yourself.

Excess body weight with poor posture is the first enemy. It is imperative to get your weight in order; The back muscles should not be tense, correct posture is convenient and comfortable, just not habitual. Excessive overexertion will cause pain and aggravate the situation; Your head should be held so that your eyes look straight ahead, your shoulders should be straightened to the sides and slightly pulled back, your back should be kept straight. It is important to monitor your posture not only while walking, but also while sitting, standing (at rest), when lifting heavy objects, and to ensure the correct position while sleeping.

There are several simple techniques that have been known for a long time, but this does not make them any less effective:

Dictionary on the head. An exercise that has become the talk of the town, a tool used by governesses and classy ladies who teach young girls noble manners. To do this, you need to put a heavier book on your head (a dictionary or encyclopedia is ideal) and try to walk around the room without the book falling. At first glance it seems simple, but in reality it turns out that it’s not very simple. The exercise trains the neck muscles and vestibular apparatus.

Wall. To check whether there are postural abnormalities and correct them, you need to stand with your back to the wall, pressing the back of your head, shoulder blades, buttocks and heels. You need to stand against the wall in this position several times a day for 2-5 minutes. Gradually, the back will get used to the correct motor pattern.

Simple and effective

1. Variations on the theme “walls”. Stand against the wall, press the back of your head, shoulder blades, buttocks and heels, freeze in this position for 30 seconds. Then stand straight and gradually bend over, rounding your spine. Ideally, touch your nose to your feet; if this result is not achievable, try to twist your torso as much as possible. You need to straighten up carefully, step by step, and again freeze in the correct position for 30-60 seconds.

2. Place your palm on your head and place your other hand behind your back. Tilt your head to your shoulder, helping with your hand. Then return to the starting position, change hands and repeat on the other side.

3. Join your hands behind your back and move them back, slowly bending your torso forward. The exercise is repeated 8-10 times.

4. Place your right hand behind your head (bent at the elbow), your left hand behind your back. Clasp your hands and return to the starting position. Repeat 8-10 times.

5. Bend your chest into a “wheel” and move your shoulders back. Return to starting position. Repeat 10 times.

6. As you inhale, relax your abdominal muscles, and as you exhale, pull your stomach in as much as possible. Repeat as often as possible.

Pikabushniki, let's get up from the couch and correct our posture;)

Source

How to make nunchucks for beginners

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In order to fight hordes of ninjas, you will need to make nunchucks. Before you make them, you should remember that wearing nunchucks is equivalent to wearing edged weapons. The first training nunchucks can be purchased at sports stores. It is impossible to fight with such shells; they are too light and unreliable. The weight of the training sample must correspond to its combat counterpart or weigh more.

To make them you will need a tube of wallpaper, a wood drill, a hacksaw and a rope.

The wallpaper is rewound into a thin, dense tube and fixed with electrical tape;
Then a length of two nunchuck sticks is measured and wrapped with thick electrical tape;
This piece is sawn off and divided into two equal parts;
The ends of the tubes are wrapped with electrical tape;
On each tube, at one end, five centimeters from the edge, a through hole is drilled;
A rope is threaded through the drilled holes and tied in a knot.

This completes the production of training nunchucks. With their help, you can safely study the combat use of this weapon.

The technique of combat use of nunchucks is quite simple, the main thing to remember is that the spectacular movie “turntables” serve only to practice weapon control and are not used in real combat.

Author of the article:

ULFHED

I am interested in martial arts with weapons and historical fencing. I write about weapons and military equipment because it is interesting and familiar to me. I often learn a lot of new things and want to share these facts with people who are interested in military issues.

How to make nunchaku

When you start training with nunchaku, you will need several types of nunchaku. Firstly, at the initial stage you will need light training nunchaku made of soft rubber, foam rubber or other similar material. In the first months of training, you will hit yourself more often than the target, and soft nunchaku will allow you to avoid injury. In the future, you will use these nunchaku for training with a partner. When you learn not to hit yourself, you will need ordinary wooden or plastic nunchaku, with which you will practice combat techniques, exercises for breaking objects, etc. Another type of nunchaku you will need is a heavy plastic or metal nunchaku to develop strength and endurance. When making or purchasing these types of nunchaku, you will also need to select their size and weight to suit your height, your body proportions and your preferred technique. This is what we will talk about in this chapter.

When selecting the parameters of personal weapons, the metric system is ineffective. It is impossible to advise everyone to use a nunchaku with a length of x centimeters and a thickness of y millimeters. Not so long ago, the metric system did not exist and length measures usually depended on the height of the person measuring. If you read in an old book that an object was eight inches long, six shaku, two cubits or ten tsun, you cannot convert its length into centimeters without knowing, say, the length of the owner's arm. In this chapter, we will also use length measures depending on your dimensions - “fist” and “finger”. If you see “fist-length” in the text, this means that the length of the object should correspond to the width of your clenched fist (Fig. 1a), but if you see “two fingers”, then this means that the width of your two fingers was meant. fingers pressed together, starting with the index (Fig. 1b).

At first glance, the design of the nunchaku is quite simple - two sticks connected by a rope or chain. However, if you want the nunchaku to easily obey you, so that you can effectively perform the entire range of techniques you use, you need to select the nunchaku “to suit your hand.” What exactly parameters require selection?

1. Length of handles.

If all you do with the nunchaku is spin them around, then the length of the sticks doesn't really matter to you. First of all, the length of the sticks is important when you perform blocks with the forearm (Fig. 2a) - if the handle is too short, your blocks will be ineffective (Fig. 2b). In addition, the insufficient length of the handles makes it difficult to use the nunchaku as a baton, work with a mixed grip and with a straight grip, perform poke strikes, etc. On the other hand, nunchaku with handles that are too long are difficult to control and are too bulky. The optimal length of the handle will be the length of your forearm - from the elbow to the bent thumb (Fig. 3). Sometimes, when there is a need to secretly carry the nunchaku in a pocket or handbag, shortened nunchaku with handles two fists long or even shorter are also used, then the total length of the weapon is compensated by lengthening the rope or chain to a length of two fists or more. Such nunchaku are suitable mainly for driving away opponents by striking them; they are very poorly suited for defense - they are more like a flail than a nunchaku.

2. Connection length.

The length of the connection - rope or chain - affects most of the techniques performed. Some inconvenience is that a short connection is better for some techniques, while a long connection is better for others. For techniques when one handle moves freely, whipping blows, rotations in circles and figures of eight, and interceptions from hand to hand, a short connection - three or even two fingers - is more suitable. The shorter the connection, the easier it is to control the movement of the free handle of the nunchaku and the greater the speed that can be achieved when rotating the weapon. The short connection is also well suited for various squeezing techniques, where the opponent's arm or leg is squeezed between the handles of the nunchaku like a nut in a nutcracker. However, too short a connection (less than two fingers) is also not suitable for these techniques. On the other hand, a short connection makes it difficult to work with a mixed grip; it frays faster. To perform blocks with a joint stand or a joint jerk, a long joint is better suited - one and a half fists long or even more. For many chokes, a connection that is not too long or too short works best, and the same is true for clamps. Taking into account all these requirements, the optimal length of the connection is considered to be one fist (Fig. 4a) or four fingers (Fig. 4b). This connection length allows you to perform all the techniques listed above. It is possible that you will later want to change the length of the connection, adapting it to your preferred techniques, but it is worth starting with this length.

3. Connection material.

The connection material can be either some kind of rope, lace or leather strap, or a metal chain. For training nunchaku, a rope is definitely preferable - it is easier to make such nunchaku, it is easy to change the rope or adjust its length, and when training in pairs, a rope connection causes less injury to the partner. For combat nunchaku, in my opinion, it is better to use a chain - it is more reliable, does not fray, does not stretch, it cannot be cut with a knife and therefore it can be used to place blocks against the blade; when performing choking or squeezing techniques, the chain gives a better effect. On the other hand, the chain on combat nunchaku requires a special fastening that allows it to rotate freely, otherwise the chain will twist and this will make it difficult to control the nunchaku. As a result, the complexity of the design increases, which somewhat reduces its reliability. Therefore, some still prefer a rope connection for combat nunchaku. In addition, when a chain passes through a metal detector, it can trigger it, but it does not “notice” a rope connection.

4. Shape of the handles.

Nunchaku handles can be cylindrical or conical (Fig. 5a), round or faceted in cross section (Fig. 5b). For soft training nunchaku, the shape of the handle does not matter much. For weighted nunchaku and for nunchaku for practicing military equipment, a conical shape of the handle is preferable - it gives a more reliable grip, prevents the weapon from slipping out of the hand, in addition, the center of gravity shifts towards the end of the handle, which somewhat increases the force of the blow. It is also worth cutting a groove 4-5 mm wide and about 1 mm deep at a distance of 30-35 mm from the thick end of the handle, and another similar one at a distance of 25-30 mm from it. This will also prevent your hand from slipping. If desired, you can cut the same grooves on the other end of the handle. As for the cross-section of the nunchaku, a round section of the handles is better suited for training nunchaku, and a six- or octagonal one for combat ones. The fact is that a faceted surface causes more injury when struck or when performing a compression technique. Since you will mainly hit yourself or a partner with your training nunchaku, they should be round. Nunchaku for testing military equipment, on the contrary, must provide the maximum damaging effect, so a faceted section is preferable for them. For the same reason, it is better to make the lower (not connected to each other) ends of the handles of training nunchakus rounded, and those of combat nunchakus with an evenly cut end (Fig. 5c).

5. Thickness of handles.

Two things depend on the thickness of the handles. Firstly, the thickness of the nunchaku handle determines how comfortable it will sit in the hand - a handle that is too thick or too thin will not allow for a reliable grip and will slip out of the hand. Secondly, the weight of the nunchaku depends on the thickness of the handles (as well as its length and material). A weapon that is too light will not allow you to deliver a strong blow, a weapon that is too heavy is difficult to control, and it is also slow. Traditionally, the thickness of a conical nunchaku handle is equal to the length of the second phalanx of your index finger at the thick end of the handle, and the length of the second phalanx of your little finger at the thin end (Fig. 6). If you use nunchaku with cylindrical handles, then the thickness of the handle should either be equal to the length of the second phalanx of the little finger, or the arithmetic mean between the length of the second phalanx of your little finger and the length of the second phalanx of the index finger. These sizes provide a secure grip, as well as optimal weight for combat nunchaku, if they are made of wood. If your nunchaku for practicing combat techniques are made of heavier material (for example, plastic), the handles should be somewhat thinner - but not so much that they are uncomfortable to hold in your hand.

6. Weight of handles.

Like other parameters, the weight of the weapon is selected individually. The weight of combat nunchaku depends on their size, advice on the selection of which was given in the previous sections. The weight of light and weighted training nunchaku should not be selected so precisely. It is enough to remember that the weight of light training nunchaku should in no case exceed 120-160 grams, the weight of combat nunchaku for a person of average strength is in the range of 600-1000 grams, and the weight of weighted training nunchaku used to develop endurance and hand strength can fluctuate from 2.5 to 5 kilograms, and for physically strong people - and more.

So, let's briefly summarize :

1. The length of the nunchaku handles is equal to the length of your forearm from the elbow to the bent thumb (Fig. 3).

2. The length of the connection is equal to the width of your fist or four fingers (Fig. 4).

3. Connection material - rope for training nunchaku, chain (or, less commonly, rope) for combat ones.

4. The shape of the handle is conical (or, less commonly, cylindrical), round in cross section and rounded at the lower end for training nunchaku or faceted with an evenly cut end for combat ones (Fig. 5).

5. The thickness of the handles is equal to the length of the second phalanx of the little finger at the thin end and the length of the second phalanx of the index finger at the thick end for conical handles (Fig. 6) or their arithmetic mean for cylindrical handles.

6. Weapon weight - up to 120-160 grams for light training nunchaku, about 600-1000 grams for combat nunchaku and from 2.5 to 5 kilograms for weighted training nunchaku.

Now let's talk about how to purchase nunchaku or make them yourself.

You can most likely purchase light training nunchaku at a sports store for a couple of dollars. They are not considered weapons. If you can't find them in a sports store, you can buy toy nunchaku at some "Children's World" - they are usually sold either separately or in some kind of set like "Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Equipment". Although such nunchaku are not suitable for practicing blocks, they are quite satisfactory for practicing rotations in circles and figures of eight, interceptions, poking and whipping strikes. In addition, such nunchaku are completely safe. Just don’t forget to pay attention to their size; it is important that they at least roughly fit your hand, since they are often made to fit the hand of a child, not an adult.

If you want to make light training nunchaku yourself, you will need plastic tubes

or hard rubber about the thickness of your little finger - for example, two pieces of a garden hose will do,

if it is not too flexible, a thin (6-9 mm) sheet of foam rubber or sponge rubber and a strong lace

or rope - a strong nylon boot lace, for example, will do just fine. Cutting off two pieces

tubes of the required length, drill each of them crosswise at one end approximately 10-15 mm from

edges and connect them with rope, as shown in Figure 7.

Don't forget to adjust the length of the rope. Pay attention to the way you tie the knot.

Then wrap both tubes with a layer of foam or sponge rubber. Attention: very important

so that the ends of the handles are also soft, otherwise, if you hit yourself in the eye with the end of the handle,

You risk wearing a black patch over your eye for the rest of your life, like Field Marshal Kutuzov.

To avoid this, take a strip of foam rubber of such length that it protrudes beyond the edge of the tube on both sides by about 2-3 centimeters, cut it at both ends 2-4 times, dividing it into 4, 6 or 8 petals, respectively, as shown in the figure. 8a, and fold these petals in pairs, fastening them with glue or adhesive tape or stitching them - this way you will get rounded soft ends. You can also simply sew the foam rubber at the ends (without cutting it) using strong threads (Fig. 8b). You can secure the foam rubber to the handle with glue, adhesive tape, or even elastic or thread; you can also cover the handles with some durable, but not too rough, material. Hit yourself with the nunchaku ready on the inside of your bare forearm. If this does not give you very unpleasant sensations, then the training nunchaku are ready - use it to your health. If you were in pain, wrap the handles with another layer of foam rubber.

If you are too lazy to tinker for a long time, you can do like one of my friends - he made training nunchaku by rolling two newspapers into a tube, tightening them with an elastic band and connecting them with a shoe lace. Of course, such nunchaku are short-lived, but they are quite safe, and when they become unusable, it is not difficult to make new ones.

Another option for safe nunchaku can be made from two empty plastic bottles of 330 or 500 milliliters of Coke or mineral water (Fig. 9). A hole with a diameter of 3-4 millimeters is burned or drilled in the lid of each bottle, a rope is threaded through the holes and knots are tied at its ends to prevent slipping. The bottom of the bottles themselves, as shown in the figure, is cut out, not cut off, so that the edges of the lower ends of the “handles” are rounded and do not scratch the partner. The caps are screwed onto the bottles - and the training weapon is ready. Holding such “nunchaku” is not very convenient, but they are really safe and you can use them to hit your training partner with full force without fear for his health (however, even with these “weapons” you shouldn’t hit him in the face very hard - you can break your nose or hit the eye).

The easiest way to make a nunchaku for practicing military equipment at first is to buy two handles for hammers at a hardware store - they are usually made of good, durable wood and their shape is quite

comfortable for the hand, so by choosing two handles for hammers of suitable length, you can make

Of these, nunchaku is quite satisfactory. To do this you need to drill them as shown in

Figure 10 and connect with a strong rope. I usually use polyamide rope for this purpose.

(or other durable synthetic fiber) 3-3.5 mm thick, purchased at a tourist store

and climbing accessories. Don't forget to adjust the length of the rope. note

on the method of tying a knot - such a knot does not untie when pulled. However, to be on the safe side

After tying the knot, you can also stitch it with strong threads.

If you want to make the nunchaku handles yourself, you can grind them to size,

indicated earlier in this chapter and then connect in the manner already described. Handle material

Durable wood can be used - oak, beech, mahogany, etc. - either light and durable

plastic, for example, fiberglass or cilaflex. If you want to use a chain,

It is not enough for you to simply attach it to the handles - the chain requires special

fastening that allows it to rotate freely, otherwise the chain will twist and

It will be difficult for you to control the movement of the weapon.

Basic types of chain fastening

to the nunchaku are shown in Figure 11. If you purchase factory-made nunchaku on a chain, beware of Chinese and Taiwanese (as well as any other) nunchaku with a fastening made on the basis of a ball bearing - such a connection perfectly ensures freedom of rotation of the chain, but it is also unreliable with a strong jerk (for example, when performing a chain block) it shatters into pieces.

If desired, the wooden blank for nunchaku can be treated with oil to make the wood even more durable. This is how Dmitry Koshevoy ( [email protected] ), a generalist from Lipetsk, describes this process:

“The type of wood is chosen according to religious and aesthetic beliefs. According to observations, dogwood, ash, pear, apple, and plum trees survive blows best (they do not splinter or crumple). Beech is slightly inferior. Even worse is oak. It is durable, but due to the large fibers it splinters quite easily.

The workpiece is straight-layered (i.e., the twists are of course acceptable, but in general the fibers should run along the entire length of the future product), well-dried (at least a month in room conditions, or better yet, longer and at the end of the drying period, you can keep it on a heating radiator for several days ).

First, the product is processed almost completely, but with minimal allowance for final sanding and scraping (the wood of the mentioned species is already hard and then it will be even more difficult to work with it, so it is better to do as much work as possible before impregnation) and in this form it is either immersed in a bath of oil for a day or two (in general, gunsmiths call periods up to six months, but in the context of making rifle stocks, and they have huge sizes) or during the same time it is regularly lubricated with oil, especially paying attention to the ends - it is absorbed especially actively through them . Flaxseed oil is recommended, but sunflower oil is also quite suitable (I don’t know about olive and rapeseed oil). If the workpiece is small in size, cold impregnation can be reduced to 1-2 hours.

After cold impregnation, excess oil is removed from the workpiece, and then the workpiece is heated in the oven at a temperature of about 200 degrees, or with a jet of air from an industrial hair dryer or over a gas burner (in these cases, you must work carefully so as not to overheat the workpiece, otherwise you can cause scorch or, what's even worse is to set fire to the oil on the surface). A sign of a normally proceeding process is a barely audible hissing and bubbles at the ends of the workpiece and in places of wood defects (voids, microcracks). Approximately once every 10-15 minutes (as the oil is absorbed from the surface), the workpiece is lubricated with oil. It is ideal to continue until it stops being absorbed and fizzing, but usually 5-7, maximum 10 repetitions are enough. We continue to heat at the same temperature for about another hour.

Now there are two options: let the workpiece rest for about a month so that it solidifies or force the process by heating. To be honest, there is no difference in quality, so the first option can be considered an option for the lazy, and for the second, we heat the workpiece to the already usual 200 degrees and hold it for about 10-12 hours (the parameter is very approximate, it depends on both the wood and the oil) , not necessarily in one go, you can do this several times. The main sign that everything is ready is that the piece of wood stops getting dirty with oil (the way to check is to rub it with paper or put the workpiece on a sheet of white paper), the secondary one is that when sanding, sawdust falls out and not oily flakes.

The final processing will consist of sanding (with sandpaper, gradually reducing the number) and scraping (preferably with glass, but you can also use a regular parquet scraper if you fill it better, or even with a sharp knife, but you need to work with the knife very carefully so as not to raise the lint). For dogwood, pear, apple, and plum trees, you can even polish the surface with large-number GOI paste (green), but only after thorough sanding—otherwise it will get into scratches and ruin everything.

If you want shine on rougher wood (oak, beech), you can rub it with a composition like parquet wax.”

There is no need to rush into making weighted nunchaku - you will only need them at an advanced stage. The design of heavy training nunchaku is in many ways similar to the design of nunchaku for practicing military equipment - the main difference is their weight. Attention: weighted nunchaku are designed to develop strength and endurance by practicing techniques at a slow pace - never try to perform movements with heavy nunchaku at maximum speed, you can injure your hands (possibly sprained tendons, subluxated joints, etc.), You should also not strike any objects with weighted nunchaku; all strikes with them are performed exclusively in the air. The handles of heavy training nunchaku are made of heavy plastic, metal or wood reinforced with a metal rod. Of course, heavy handles also require a stronger mount. If a rope connection is used (it is not recommended to use it with metal handles), then the rope must be strong enough, it is best to use a rope made of nylon, polyamide or other strong synthetic fiber, at least 5 mm thick, from a hiking and mountaineering supply store. For metal nunchaku, it is more reliable to use a chain, and in this case there is no need to ensure rotation of the chain, so it is best to use a welded mount.

Several of the most popular design options for weighted nunchaku are described below, but you can come up with your own design. The only important thing is that it is reliable. The first option is made in exactly the same way as the nunchaku for practicing military equipment with a rope connection, but the material for the handles is some kind of heavy, dense plastic (for example, nylon, eculon or textolite) or even metal, and the handles themselves can also be somewhat thicker ordinary ones, the rope must also be thicker (5 mm or more) to ensure reliable fastening. This option is the most preferable both in terms of reliability and ease of manufacture. In the second option, ordinary nunchaku are taken for practicing military equipment with handles made of wood or light plastic, if they are connected to a rope, then the rope is replaced with a thicker one, a hole with a diameter of about 1/3 of the diameter of the handle is drilled in the lower end of each handle along the longitudinal axis of the handle and about 1/3 of the length of the handle. The hole is filled with molten lead, or filled with lead shot (or iron filings, small iron nuts, etc.) and filled with epoxy resin, or a metal rod of the appropriate length and diameter is inserted into the hole with glue. Then, after the filler has hardened, each handle is drilled transversely approximately 20-30 mm from the bottom end and a screw is screwed into the hole or a pin is inserted into the hole (Fig. 12). If the ends of the screw protrude outward, they must be ground flush, flush with the surface of the handles, so that they do not injure your hand. The third option can be made by connecting two sections of a metal pipe (for example, a water pipe) of suitable length and diameter with a strong metal chain - it is advisable to use welding to make the connection as reliable as possible. If you want to use an even heavier nunchaku, you can use a metal rod instead of pipes, or use pipes but fill them with epoxy resin for weight. Let me remind you once again that the main requirement for heavy nunchaku is their reliability, especially the reliability of the connection.

History of weapons

Cardio workout at home in 10 minutes (2 difficulty levels)

Hello friends! In this video I do a cardio workout at home.

The video shows 3 laps (to make it convenient to train with me online). If you are just interested in watching, then I warn you that after 1 circle there will be 2 more identical circles and there is simply no point in watching them.

If you are a beginner, start with simple exercises (shown in the video), or switch to them after you can no longer perform a more complex option. How many circles to perform depends only on you. I usually do 2-3 laps.

Be sure to monitor your well-being and if you need more rest, pause the video, and also do not forget to pause after each lap to recover for a few minutes. Have a productive workout!

Completing of the work

We begin making nunchucks with our own hands by cutting wooden handles. After giving the product the required shape, you need to carefully sand the wood using sandpaper glued to a flat board. Next, the process of attaching the selected connection begins.

There are two possible options:

If the choice is a rope connection, then take a 5 mm drill and make a hole in the thin end part of the stick. After this, take a 3 mm drill and drill two holes on the side at a distance of 3-4 cm for future rope fastening. A groove is made between the holes in the wood so that the rope is hidden under the level of the stick. It is possible to thread a metal fastener instead of a rope, but from a strong impact it will be deformed, and a rough grip will limit the athlete’s movements.
If a chain is chosen as the connecting material, then the diameter of its links should be 3 mm. The first and last links are chosen to be longer. They are completely hidden in the cavity of the handle. A hole is drilled to the size of the link, and two are also drilled on the side for fastening. The links inside can be secured using a metal rod.

How to make nunchucks from wood

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

an ordinary mop stick made of the strongest wood;
a chain with small links or a piece of rope;
two self-tapping hooks;
the same number of washers with a wide shelf;
hacksaw or jigsaw;
drill;
sandpaper;
roulette;
pencil.

Before starting work, you need to calculate how long the sticks and chain (rope) should be. If you plan to train using nunchucks yourself, measure the length from your thumb to your elbow and the width of your hand. The result should be two parameters. The first is the length of the sticks, and the second is the length of the chain. By the way, about three nunchucks can come out of one stick.

Further steps are also very simple. First, sand the stick thoroughly with sandpaper. Then cut 2 pieces and round the edges. Now take the chain and attach screws on both sides. For greater reliability, you can treat the fastening points with varnish. In one piece of stick, drill a hole on top, smaller in diameter than the self-tapping screw, and screw it in. Do similar actions with the second piece of wood. At this point the work can be considered completed. Now you know how to make nunchucks from a regular mop.

How to make nunchucks at home

To make such an interesting item, you will need materials that can be found in any home. Try to find the following items:

- old unnecessary newspapers;

- several sheets of clean white paper;

- twine (you can use twine);

- a piece of thick rope.

Take a piece of clean paper and roll it into a horizontal tube (you can read how to make nunchucks out of paper in this article). Now do the same with old newspapers. The diameter of your workpieces should not exceed four to five centimeters.

Secure the paper with tape to maintain its proper shape. Now insert pre-rolled newspapers into it. Try to fit them exactly to the size of your blank sheet. If there aren't enough newspapers, don't be upset. You can fill the space by rolling up another newspaper or two and inserting them into your paper tube.

Once you have made two paper straws, start decorating them. To do this, take string or twine. Please note that the spiral must be very tight, so when using these materials it is better to use glue. This way they will definitely hold on very well and reliably.

Now all you have to do is fasten both tubes with high-quality thick rope. It is best to pull it through the entire product and make knots at the ends so that nothing is damaged while using the attribute.

Part Dimensions

Before you make nunchucks from wood with your own hands, you need to know what size to cut the sticks and measure the length of the chain or laces. To calculate the size of the handles, the distance from the bone on the bent elbow to the middle of the palm is usually measured. This is a classic option for training. If the nunchucks will be used for protection and need to be placed in a pocket or purse, then the size can be equal to the length of two fists. In such cases, the connection is lengthened. There are also types of weapons that have sticks of different lengths. The choice is yours.

Next you need to measure the length of the chain or lace. It is optimal to start training with a connection length of four fingers or the size of a fist. This size will allow you to practice different techniques: clamps, mixed grips, squeezing and hand-to-hand interception. Later, you can try to make nunchucks with your own hands, using a short two-finger connection, which allows you to better control the movement of the free handle. There are also options with a long rope, well suited for making blocks. The size of such a connection is two fists or more.

The shape of the handles for training is conical. Combat nunchucks have a faceted shape with evenly cut ends. The thickness in a narrow place is equal to the phalanx of the little finger, and in a thick place - the phalanx of the index finger. Weight also varies - from simple wooden handles to specially weighted handles used for combat missions.

Parameters that must be taken into account during operation

So how to make nunchucks correctly so that they are not only safe, but also easy to use? Some tips and tricks for making them will help you with this.

To determine the desired handle length, measure the distance from your bent thumb to your elbow.
Measure the width of your fist. This distance will be the length of the connection.
The material acting as a connecting link can be a rope, a tourniquet, or a chain.
The shape of the handles can be round, rounded, conical or faceted.
To determine the thickness for tapered sticks, measure the length of the second phalanx of the little finger (thin end) and the length of the second phalanx of the index finger (thick end).
The weight of a training weapon can be from 120 to 160 grams for the lightest nunchucks, from 600 to 1000 grams for combat ones, from 2500 to 5000 grams for weighted ones.

Perhaps, after reading this article, you have found the answers to all your questions related to making a training device, and now you know how to make nunchucks correctly.

Do-it-yourself training nunchucks, primitive technologies

Fireworks to everyone! To make training nunchucks we will need:

No duplicates found

Nylon rope, the tighter the better

Thread the rope as indicated in the diagram

There are police at the door, go open it.

An acquaintance told me how, as a teenager, he decided to master nunchucks. I twisted them and twisted them. I decided to make a feint with an interception over the shoulder from behind. He woke up, he says, on the floor. The nunchucks are lying nearby, and there is a bump on the back of my head.

This didn’t happen, but I almost broke all my fingernails)

We buy a handle for a shovel at a hardware store (the diameter is about the size of a rolling pin). We saw off two elbow-length sticks from the handle.

At the end we drill a hole for the ties (one hole across, and two at an angle through the center of the stick, a triangle is formed). We tie it with lace.

We get nunchucks. Quite weighty.

When practicing interceptions, we try not to hit the back of our heads and tear down a chandelier or wall.

Yeah, thank you.. With these nunchucks all I had to do was knock out my own eye, and so I knocked off all my elbows/fingers(

And so I knock down gadflies on the fly, once a bee attacked when I was spinning, I hit the bee with a nunchuck, the bee evaporated, I don’t harm insects, but they wanted to sting me and bite the gadflies)

Well, forgive me, I'm a newbie, I'm still learning)

Those. It’s no longer interesting to peel nettles with a stick)

What if they slow down on the subway?

There is another method to increase arm endurance. And no knife is needed.

But the rope might come in handy.

Technique

Example of nunchuk rotation

The technique of fighting with nunchaku is called nunchaku-jutsu; it is replete with interceptions, which is due to several facts:

with continuous interceptions, it is almost impossible to take away weapons;
Due to the interceptions, the angle of movement very often changes, which during the rotational movement of the nunchaku greatly increases the force of the blow.

The most effective is the use of “counter” strikes (the fastest possible counterattack on the enemy’s attacking limb). The fighting technique involves various techniques for disarming a person with a sword, knife, stick, pipe, spear, pistol, etc. Also in the nunchaku technique, various clamps, strangulations, holds, throwing techniques, etc. abound.

The practice of nuntyaku as a separate martial art is called nuntyaku-do, where, as in any budo, special attention is paid to meditative techniques and internal work.

In martial arts, it is used mainly in Okinawan kobudo (from where it was borrowed by modern karateka in Japan, and thanks to the popularity of films with Bruce Lee - modern wushu practitioners in China) as a subject for the development of forearm and wrist muscles, coordination of movement and as a weapon. Nunchakus are used both in the process of separate work with objects and in kata (Chinese taolu).

Nuntyaku-kata

- performing in strict sequence a certain series of techniques with nuntyaku, the complexity and speed of execution of which serve as the basis for obtaining one or another assessment. Nuntyaku kata competitions are held to evaluate technique, speed and style.

Nuntyaku freestyle

- performing an arbitrary set of techniques and exercises with nuntyaku, sometimes with elements of acrobatics, juggling and using paired nuntyaku. Nuntyak freestyle competitions are similar to rhythmic gymnastics competitions. Style, technique and originality are judged.

All sports fights are conducted with soft nuntyaku and protective helmets. During the battle you need to score 6 points. Points are given for a strike that was preceded by intercepting the nuntyaku from hand to hand or blocking an enemy attack. At competitions, officially approved nuntyaku are used, and in the height category up to 155 cm, “junior” nuntyaku with a length of 25 cm are used.

Disciplines

In the 80s of the last century in Holland, the art of using nunchaku acquired a sporting outline. The discipline began to be called nunchaku-do. It consists of four sections: kumite, kata, floor exercise and nunchaku-jutsu. Competitions are being held for the first three today.

Kumite is sparring with nunchaku. Before each strike, except for the thrusting one (“tsuki”), the sparrers must make at least two interceptions, which is done to increase the entertainment value of the competition. The battle is fought to 6 points. Complex and effective technical elements are awarded two points. In some ways this section is similar to fencing. Sports fights are conducted with soft nunchaku and protective helmets.

Kata is a demonstrative performance of certain elements with nunchaku, which are done in a predetermined order. This section of nunchaku-do is comparable to the kata of traditional martial arts.

Floor exercises, or freestyle, are not an applied form of nunchaku-do; its elements cannot always be used in a real fight, but it is the most spectacular. The originality of combinations, style of execution and technique are assessed.

Nunchaku-jutsu is a section of nuchaku-do that studies the use of nunchaku for self-defense. Within its framework, the use of nunchaku against various types of attack is studied. Both with and without weapons. This is the most combat section of nunchaku-do.

Currently, the development of nanchaku-do is supervised by three organizations: the World Nunchaku Association (WNA), the World Nunchaku Federation (WNF) and the World Kobudo Federation (WKF).

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Material for work

The best wood for work is considered to be hardwood, such as oak, beech, ash or fruit trees: plum, pear, dogwood, apple tree. Such products will not crack upon impact and will hold fastenings better. Since you will need to make two thin sticks, there is no reason to buy a board. You can use an ax to chop off two chips from a stump and trim them to size. As a last resort, if there is a problem with the wood, you can buy a stick for a shovel or mop. Despite the fact that nunchucks are made mainly from birch, this material is also suitable.

Next you need to think about what type of connection you want to fasten the sticks together. This can be a thick natural rope, a piece of chain with a 3 mm link, or a leather lace. At the beginning of your sports career, it is better to practice techniques with nunchucks with rope connections, so as not to injure your opponent. Subsequently, with sufficient experience, it will be possible to use products with a chain connection.

For those who don’t know what it is, I’ll explain: these are nunchucks (2 wooden sticks fastened together with a chain or strong rope), widely used in the last century in martial arts.

They were used not only for self-defense, but also as an attack, but in all these years I have never used my product (you know, I don’t like violence, I am for world peace). Although no, I still used them a couple of times when I was filming a video on a humor channel. And despite the fact that I know how to handle nunchucks, and quite well, I made them not at all in order to use or put my skills into practice, but rather as a souvenir or trophy. They've been in place for almost 20 years and are still like new.

Well, I think it’s time to tell you how I made them, and the history of their creation is very interesting, because it is deeply rooted in the late 90s and early 2000s, the years of my student life. In parallel with my studies, I attended a karate school (yes, don’t be surprised), for me at that time it was important, since I was often the object of ridicule and bullying from classmates, and I simply had no other choice but to enroll in Judo school to learn self-defense techniques. I hope it’s now clear where I got the skills to use nunchucks, and why I even have them.

But the most interesting thing is that I made these nunchucks myself, without outside help or technical literature. I didn’t have any reference books or tutorials on how to develop them; I had only an idea, and then pure improvisation. Years later, I read that such a product as nunchucks also has certain requirements for material, diameter and length, but this is no longer important, since I had no intention of using them anyway.

It must be taken into account that at that time this was generally a novelty, especially in Russia. Nunchucks were popular mainly in China, but we didn’t even talk about it. Now everything has become available (on Net you can order whatever you want, including nunchucks), but at the beginning of the 00s it was wildness, especially in our outback of the Irkutsk region. Back then, no one knew about online shopping with us, and we didn’t have such a thing. Digital technology and electronics have just begun to take their first confident steps (in the West all this already existed, but in our country it appeared only years later), the digital era has begun.

And so, at the dawn of technical progress in digital electronics, I “concocted” these nunchucks. As I remember now - 2000, 2nd year of “Fazanka”, I just had an internship, I did it at a reinforced concrete plant where my father worked. It was there, during practice, in the workshop, that I turned them on an emery machine.

At the beginning, of course, it was necessary to choose the type of wood, and without any doubt about the right choice, I took a birch log (since it is considered one of the strongest) and split it into several parts, 2 of which later became the handle of the nunchuk. As already mentioned, I turned them on an emery wheel, but before that I had to do a little work with a hatchet and a plane, all this took me some time.

After processing on the machine, when the sticks acquired a more or less rounded shape, they had to be sanded manually with sandpaper to remove all the bumps and burrs. First, I sanded them with coarse sandpaper to remove large visible roughness, then with finer sandpaper to minimize all minor imperfections. I would still like to note the imperfection of my product, in the photo below you can see some “jambs” on the sticks in the form of depressions, but this could not be avoided, these are dents from knots (yes, birch wood is like that).

Description

To complete the order you will need 100,000 gold per fusion level. If you do not have the required amount of gold on your account, then you can replenish your reserves in the section with gold and souls.

CHARACTERISTICS ON MERGER X:

40% chance to cast fire when performing basic attacks;
100% increase in damage against representatives of the Outer World;
600% increased damage ONLY IN SHIRAI RYU TOWER;
When used in conjunction with Champion's Leather Bracers, any Diamond Liu Kang has a 40% chance to perform a special combo finisher that deals massive damage. If the last enemy is below 25% health, the character immediately performs BRUTALITY and instantly ends the battle;
When an ally enters combat, Liu Kang will cast Dragon Flame from off-screen, dealing 500% of his base damage with a 50% chance to inflict Fire.

Anyone who has played Mortal Kombat Mobile has probably noticed that it is extremely difficult to complete the game without donating (investing real money). For example, in order to open a rare equipment card and level up your character, you have to spend a lot of time going through the same battles several times, earning treasured souls and opening sets with random cards. In addition, the energy that is enough for 3 battles is constantly running out, which further complicates the process of earning money.

All this is done so that players buy souls for real money, and the prices for them in the game itself are simply prohibitive. Fortunately, all iOS and Android users now have the opportunity to make in-game purchases for a very small fee.

Technique

Example of nunchuk rotation

The technique of fighting with nunchaku is called nunchaku-jutsu; it is replete with interceptions, which is due to several facts:

with continuous interceptions, it is almost impossible to take away weapons;
Due to the interceptions, the angle of movement very often changes, which during the rotational movement of the nunchaku greatly increases the force of the blow.

The practice of nuntyaku as a separate martial art is called nuntyaku-do, where, as in any budo, special attention is paid to meditative techniques and internal work.

Nuntyaku-kata

Nuntyaku freestyle

DIY Nunchaku

So, you decided to start training with nunchaku, so that later, with a naked torso and a brutal expression on your face, you can beat up the rude thugs, or just for fun, but that’s not the point.
To begin with, you will need light and safe nunchucks, for example, made of foam rubber, because for the first month you will mostly beat yourself. When it becomes possible not to hit yourself, you will need wooden or plastic nunchaku, and even more metal ones, which will help develop strength and endurance. As it may seem at first glance, the design of the nunchaku is incredibly simple - two sticks connected by strings, but if you want them to be obedient, you need to select them according to your hand. If all you do is spin them around you, then the length of the poles is not important, but it’s a different matter if you also perform blocks. The optimal length of the handle is the distance from the elbow to the bent thumb. The length of the connection is also very important; the optimal distance is one fist - this will allow you to use almost all possible techniques. It is better to use rope as a connection material. For combat, a chain, since it cannot be cut, and strangling with a chain is more effective, but we are not going to war after all. The handles are made of cylindrical or conical shape, round and faceted. For training nunchaku, the shape is not important, but for combat ones it is conical, with it a more reliable grip, you can also cut out small grooves, this will also protect against slipping. For training, it is better to use a round cross-section of the handle, and for combat, a six-octagonal cross-section, this cross-section allows you to deliver truly destructive blows. Weight will also have to be selected individually; for training a weight of 100-150 grams will do, for combat within a kilogram and for developing strength from 2.5 to 5, or even more kilograms. Light training nunchaku can also be purchased in the store; they are not considered weapons; all you need to do is choose ones that fit your hand. The easiest way to make a nunchaku for practicing military equipment at first is to buy two hammer handles at a hardware store - they are usually made of good, durable wood and their shape is quite comfortable for the hand, so by choosing two hammer handles of suitable length, you can make them quite satisfactory nunchaku. To do this, you need to drill them and connect them with a strong rope. For this purpose, I usually use a polyamide rope (or other durable synthetic fiber) 3-3.5 mm thick, purchased at a hiking and mountaineering supply store. Don't forget to adjust the length of the rope. Pay attention to the tying of the knot - such a knot should not come undone when pulled. However, for reliability, after tying the knot, you can also stitch it with strong threads. If you want to make the handles of the nunchaku yourself, you can grind them according to the dimensions indicated earlier in this chapter and then connect them in the manner already described. The material for the handles can be durable wood - oak, beech, mahogany, etc. - or light and durable plastic, for example, fiberglass or cilaflex. If you want to use a chain, it is not enough for you to simply attach it to the handles - the chain needs a special fastening that allows it to rotate freely, otherwise the chain will twist and it will be difficult for you to control the movement of the weapon. If you purchase factory-made nunchaku on a chain, beware of Chinese and Taiwanese (as well as any other) nunchaku with a ball-bearing mount - such a connection perfectly ensures freedom of rotation of the chain, but it is unreliable even with a strong jerk (for example, when performing block in a chain) shatters into pieces. If desired, the wooden blank for the nunchaku can be treated with oil to make the wood even more durable. This is how Dmitry Koshevoy, a generalist from Lipetsk, describes this process: “The type of wood is selected according to religious and aesthetic beliefs. According to observations, dogwood, ash, pear, apple, and plum trees survive blows best (they do not splinter or crumple). Beech is slightly inferior. Even worse is oak. It is durable, but due to the large fibers it splinters quite easily. The workpiece is straight-layered (i.e., the twists are of course acceptable, but in general the fibers should run along the entire length of the future product), well-dried (at least a month in room conditions, or better yet, longer and at the end of the drying period, you can keep it on a heating radiator for several days ). First, the product is processed almost completely, but with minimal allowance for final sanding and scraping (the wood of the mentioned species is already hard and then it will be even more difficult to work with it, so it is better to do as much work as possible before impregnation) and in this form it is either immersed in a bath of oil for a day or two (in general, gunsmiths call periods up to six months, but in the context of making rifle stocks, and they have huge sizes) or during the same time it is regularly lubricated with oil, especially paying attention to the ends - it is absorbed especially actively through them . Flaxseed oil is recommended, but sunflower oil is also quite suitable (I don’t know about olive and rapeseed oil). If the workpiece is small in size, cold impregnation can be reduced to 1-2 hours. After cold impregnation, excess oil is removed from the workpiece, and then the workpiece is heated in the oven at a temperature of about 200 degrees, or with a jet of air from an industrial hair dryer or over a gas burner (in these cases, you must work carefully so as not to overheat the workpiece, otherwise you can cause scorch or, what's even worse is to set fire to the oil on the surface). A sign of a normally proceeding process is a barely audible hissing and bubbles at the ends of the workpiece and in places of wood defects (voids, microcracks). Approximately once every 10-15 minutes (as the oil is absorbed from the surface), the workpiece is lubricated with oil. It is ideal to continue until it stops being absorbed and fizzing, but usually 5-7, maximum 10 repetitions are enough. We continue to heat at the same temperature for about another hour. Now there are two options: let the workpiece rest for about a month to dry out or force the process by heating. To be honest, there is no difference in quality, so the first option can be considered an option for the lazy, and for the second, we heat the workpiece to the already usual 200 degrees and hold it for about 10-12 hours (the parameter is very approximate, it depends on both the wood and the oil) , not necessarily in one go, you can do this several times. The main sign that everything is ready is that the piece of wood stops getting dirty with oil (the way to check is to rub it with paper or put the workpiece on a sheet of white paper), the secondary one is that when sanding, sawdust falls out and not oily flakes. The final processing will consist of sanding (with sandpaper, gradually reducing the number) and scraping (preferably with glass, but you can also use a regular parquet scraper if you fill it better, or even with a sharp knife, but you need to work with the knife very carefully so as not to raise the lint). For dogwood, pear, apple, and plum trees, you can even polish the surface with large-number GOI paste (green), but only after thorough sanding—otherwise it will get into scratches and ruin everything. If you want shine on rougher wood (oak, beech), you can rub it with a composition like parquet wax.” There is no need to rush into making weighted nunchaku - you will only need them at an advanced stage. The design of heavy training nunchaku is in many ways similar to the design of nunchaku for practicing military equipment - the main difference is their weight. Attention: weighted nunchaku are designed to develop strength and endurance by practicing techniques at a slow pace - never try to perform movements with heavy nunchaku at maximum speed, you can injure your hands (possibly sprained tendons, subluxated joints, etc.), You should also not strike any objects with weighted nunchaku; all strikes with them are performed exclusively in the air. The handles of heavy training nunchaku are made of heavy plastic, metal or wood reinforced with a metal rod. Of course, heavy handles also require a stronger mount. If a rope connection is used (it is not recommended to use it with metal handles), then the rope must be strong enough, it is best to use a rope made of nylon, polyamide or other strong synthetic fiber, at least 5 mm thick, from a hiking and mountaineering supply store. For metal nunchaku, it is more reliable to use a chain, and in this case there is no need to ensure rotation of the chain, so it is best to use a welded mount. Several of the most popular design options for weighted nunchaku are described below, but you can come up with your own design. The only important thing is that it is reliable. The first option is made in exactly the same way as the nunchaku for practicing military equipment with a rope connection, but the material for the handles is some kind of heavy, dense plastic (for example, nylon, eculon or textolite) or even metal, and the handles themselves can also be somewhat thicker ordinary ones, the rope must also be thicker (5 mm or more) to ensure reliable fastening. This option is the most preferable both in terms of reliability and ease of manufacture. In the second option, ordinary nunchaku are taken for practicing military equipment with handles made of wood or light plastic, if they are connected to a rope, then the rope is replaced with a thicker one, a hole with a diameter of about 1/3 of the diameter of the handle is drilled in the lower end of each handle along the longitudinal axis of the handle and about 1/3 of the length of the handle. The hole is filled with molten lead, or filled with lead shot (or iron filings, small iron nuts, etc.) and filled with epoxy resin, or a metal rod of the appropriate length and diameter is inserted into the hole with glue. Then, after the filler has hardened, each handle is drilled crosswise approximately 20-30 mm from the bottom end and a screw is screwed into the hole or a pin is inserted. If the ends of the screw protrude outward, they must be ground flush, flush with the surface of the handles, so that they do not injure your hand. The third option can be made by connecting two sections of a metal pipe (for example, a water pipe) of suitable length and diameter with a strong metal chain - it is advisable to use welding to make the connection as reliable as possible. If you want to use an even heavier nunchaku, you can use a metal rod instead of pipes, or use pipes but fill them with epoxy resin for weight. Let me remind you once again that the main requirement for heavy nunchaku is their reliability, especially the reliability of the connection. 02 August 2013

Types of nunchuck

Despite the apparent similarity of all nunchakus, there are several types of them. Let's try to figure this out.

The simplest and most harmless nunchucks are soft training ones. With their help, you can master the basics and give yourself an answer to the question “do I need this?” Unfortunately, they are not very suitable for studying real military equipment;
Simple wooden nunchucks. They are two sticks connected to each other by a rope or chain. Such weapons can already inflict injuries (unfortunately, these injuries are usually received by the owner);
Wooden faceted nunchucks. Despite their unsightly appearance, they have terrible destructive power. A blow from the edge can be twice as strong and is guaranteed to pierce the skull;
Metal models. If they are made of thick steel, they can cause a lot of destruction. At least they break bricks with ease;
Real combat weighted models. Lead is poured into the ends of the handles or a massive bolt is screwed into place;
Weapons of ninjas or other extraordinary warriors. Ninjas had an impressive arsenal of transforming weapons. Their nunchucks could be twisted together, and chains and blades were often stored in the hollow handle. Moreover, these blades could be screwed into the ends of the nunchuk, turning them into deadly weapons (ninjas in general were great inventors, ahead of their era).

Here is a list of the most common types of nunchuk. Sometimes there are other examples created by the imagination of their owners.